Journal of Islamic Crafts

fa تأثیر هنر نساجی ایران دوره قاجار بر منسوجات جنبش آرت‌نوو: رویکرد تطبیقی The Influence of Iranian Textile Art of the Qajar Era on the Textiles of the Art Nouveau Movement: A Comparative Approach طراحی و فرم در هنرهای اسلامی 1 پژوهشي Original Research در هنگامۀ پرآشوب قرن نوزدهم، زمانی که جهان در آستانۀ دگرگونی‌های عمیق اجتماعی و صنعتی قرار داشت، جنبشی نوظهور از دل هنر و صنایع‌دستی سر برآورد؛ جنبشی به نام آرت‌نوو که همچون طغیانی در برابر تولید انبوه و تکراری محصولات صنعتی قد علم کرد. این سبک تازه که در اواخر قرن نوزدهم میلادی نخست در اروپا پدیدار شد، بازتاب اشتیاقی عمیق به بازگشت به طبیعت، اصالت و زیبایی‌هایی بود که در دنیای مدرن در معرض فراموشی قرار گرفته بودند. در آن سوی جهان، ایرانِ دوران قاجار، به رغم عبور از تلاطمات داخلی و نفوذ قدرت‌های خارجی، همچنان یکی از مهم‌ترین مراکز فرهنگی و هنری شرق بود. این دوره که هم‌زمان با تلاقی سنت و نوگرایی جریان داشت، شاهد تلاش‌هایی برای احیای هنرهای بومی و معرفی آن‌ها به جهان غرب بود. هنر ایرانی، به‌ویژه در قالب قالی‌های نفیس و منسوجات فاخر، توجه هنرمندان و مجموعه‌داران اروپایی را به خود جلب کرد و به یکی از منابع الهام‌بخش جنبش آرت‌نوو تبدیل شد. مقالۀ حاضر با نگاهی به این تقارن تاریخی، ضمن بررسی تطبیقی و عمیق نقوش منسوجات آرت‌نوو و منسوجات ایرانی دوران قاجار، به تحلیل عوامل مؤثر در تأثیرپذیری هنرمندان آرت‌نوو از هنر نساجی ایران می‌پردازد. این پژوهش از نظر محتوا دارای رویکردی توصیفی-تحلیلی است و برای تجزیه‌وتحلیل داده‌ها از روش کیفی بهره گرفته شده است. نتایج تحقیق نشان می‌دهد که منسوجات آرت‌نوو از برخی نقوش و فرم‌های منسوجات ایرانی، اعم از پارچه‌ها و قالی‌ها، تأثیر پذیرفته‌اند، اما بیش از آن، تحت تأثیر پالت‌های رنگی این آثار قرار داشته‌اند. این امر نشان‌دهندۀ رویکردی است که در آن، غنای رنگی و هارمونی بصری هنر ایرانی به‌عنوان منبع الهام به کار رفته، در حالی‌که ساختار طرح‌ها و نقوش مورد استفاده، از منابعی متنوع و متفاوت نشأت گرفته‌اند.   The nineteenth century marked a pivotal threshold in art, design, and material culture. While the Industrial Revolution transformed production and social life across Europe, it provoked anxiety among artists and intellectuals who sensed growing alienation from the human hand, nature, and aesthetic value. From this tension emerged Art Nouveau, seeking to reconcile art and industry through revived craftsmanship, natural forms, and decorative integrity. More than a style, it was an ethical and aesthetic protest against mechanical repetition, advocating organic unity and authenticity. European artists looked beyond their own traditions to cultures that embodied harmony of beauty, material, and technique. Among them, Qajar-era Iranian textiles and carpets attracted attention for their chromatic richness, geometric sophistication, and symbolic depth. Qajar Iran, balancing tradition and modernity, sustained dialogue with its artisanal heritage and the industrialising West. Despite political and social upheavals, it remained a creative hub. Court workshops and manufactories produced silks, velvets, and carpets that captivated European collectors and museums. Participation in late nineteenth-century World Exhibitions—Vienna 1873 and Paris 1878—introduced these works to Western audiences. Through such encounters, and figures like Robert Murdoch Smith, Iranian textiles entered Western design vocabulary, feeding Art Nouveau’s fascination with oriental aesthetics. This study examines how Qajar textile art influenced Art Nouveau, highlighting correspondences between two design systems united by devotion to beauty, nature, and craftsmanship. This research employs a descriptive–analytical framework combining historical contextualisation with qualitative visual analysis. Twelve representative textile and carpet samples from both traditions were purposively selected from scholarly, museum, and archival sources. Analysis focuses on motifs, colour palettes, geometric organisation, and field–border composition. Comparison reveals continuities and divergences, showing how Persian sensibilities were reinterpreted in a European modernist context. Findings indicate Art Nouveau textiles, particularly those of the Arts and Crafts movement, bear strong traces of Iranian visual principles. Most apparent is colour: Qajar weavers used plant-based dyes to produce deep yet harmonious contrasts—crimson, indigo, emerald, ivory—in rhythmic balance. Art Nouveau designers adapted this chromatic logic into softer, earth-toned palettes suited to fin-de-siècle interiors. Comparable sensitivity to organic line and arabesque form is evident: stylised vegetal scrolls and asymmetrical compositions echo Qajar carpets. While Qajar layouts centred on medallion-and-corner schemes, European reinterpretations transformed them into continuous, borderless patterns for wallpaper, textiles, and glass, merging oriental ornamental unity with modern European spatial fluidity. Comparative study of Ziegler carpets from Sultanabad and William Morris designs, such as Bullerswood and Holland Park carpets, reveals deliberate assimilation of Persian compositional rhythm. Ziegler pieces adjusted scale, simplified motifs, and softened tones for European taste while preserving Persian integrity. Morris’s work reflected Persian influence not literally but in its philosophy: beauty arises from coherence of form, function, and material. His patterns render nature as rhythmic abstraction, creating a living unity where repetition symbolises infinity and harmony of art, nature, and spirit. The relationship cannot be seen as unidirectional influence but as complex dialogue mediated by commerce, exhibition, and shared ideals. For Persian artisans, textiles mirrored cosmic order; for Art Nouveau designers, they symbolised regeneration. Both traditions viewed ornament as visual thought—a language expressing moral and emotional values. Persian rhythm and symmetry resonated with Art Nouveau’s pursuit of unity between structure and ornament, body and environment. This convergence offered European artists a paradigm of holistic beauty translated into modern form. Amid nineteenth-century trade expansion, museum collecting, and Orientalist interest, Iranian textiles became not only luxury commodities but carriers of an alternative aesthetic philosophy valuing handcraft, material truth, and harmony with nature. Art Nouveau adaptation of these principles signified a spiritual and ethical renewal in art, countering industrial mechanisation. In conclusion, comparative analysis shows Qajar textile art shaped Art Nouveau through colour harmony, compositional unity, and symbolic abstraction. This exchange reflects active reinterpretation, not passive borrowing, integrating Persian principles into a modern visual vocabulary. The dialogue epitomised the search for authenticity amid industrial modernity. By absorbing ornamental and chromatic wisdom, Art Nouveau artists rediscovered beauty as moral and spiritual value, reaffirming craftsmanship’s role in shaping modern life. In Art Nouveau tapestries and Qajar carpets alike, one sees a shared vision: art rooted in nature and harmony, transcending geography and time to express universal human desire for beauty and meaning.   منسوجات, ایران, قاجار, آرت‌نوو, تأثیر هنری Iran, Textiles, Qajar, Art Nouveau, Artistic Influence 0 0 http://jih-tabriziau.ir/browse.php?a_code=A-10-757-1&slc_lang=fa&sid=1 fargol zarafshan فرگل زرافشان fargol.zarafshan2018@gmail.com 10031947532846004684 10031947532846004684 Yes manzar mohammadi منظر محمدی ma.mohammadi@art.ac.ir 10031947532846004685 10031947532846004685 No faculty member of Iran University of Art هیئت علمی دانشگاه هنر ایران