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1- semnan university. Iran , samira.toosi@semnan.ac.ir
2- art university of iran
2- art university of iran
Abstract: (414 Views)
The aim of this study is to examine the designs, techniques, and applications of “patterned needlework” in women’s trousers as depicted in the iconography of the Safavid, Zand, and Qajar periods. There are two research questions: How is the design and implementation of patterned needlework? What are the applications of patterned needlework in women’s trousers comparing to the iconography of the Safavid and the Qajar periods? This study seeks to answer these questions through an analytical-descriptive method and a comparative approach. The results show that patterned needlework was conducted under two different names and designs. In the first variant which is known as “Naghsh-doozi” or embroidery, floral patterns are embroidered in a delicate geometrical way within oblique stripes, and by following the design of Mohrramat twill, this design became popular in Isfahan until well into the early Qajar period. Its main applications were in men’s vests, fabric wrappings, tablecloth, and women’s bags. Given the lower delicacy of needlework designs, another type of it emerged which was called “Mosayyaf”. The motifs include repeated sun and swastika as well as human and animal figures enclosed in geometric shapes and compartments following the patterns of tapestries and fabrics with human and geometric motifs in the Safavid period. This design was widely used in Isfahan and Azarbaijan to decorate covering cloths and headscarves. . Based on the study of(four miniature paintings and four paintings) from the Safavid, Zand, and Qajar periods and their comparison with women's trousers show that the applications of patterned needlework were in Safavid tight trousers as well as Mosayyaf needleworks on loose trousers in the Zand and early Qajar periods. The point in common between all iconographies is focus of important women and courtiers to embroidered trousers. . In two needlework designs, small silk and wool stitches are sewn through needlework obliquely and compactly on plain cotton fabric based on the count of warp and weft without the trace of the initial pattern on the fabric and only by following the cartoon of the fabric pattern.
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